08/25/2023
Last week my friend Caleb and I were permitted to climb and explore Pinnacle Rock State Park, an anticline of sandstone in southern WV. Our goal was simply to get to the top, but our curiosity wondered who else had climbed here, if they left any evidence of their climbs, what could this place be to future climbers, what will it be for us? Our chosen route was the nose of this beautiful rock feature. We started at the first vertical face from the parking lot, right next to a four leaf clover, and traversed out onto the corner and made our way to the top through the boulders that outline the shape of the rock against the backdrop of the sky. We found our way across several spires to the true summit and onto a perfect ledge where we built an anchor, took a break, and planned our descent. We had passed an old Italian piton, an old tattered rope wrapped around a boulder, and a set of rotten chains that appeared as though they had been quick-creted to the rock. We had nothing safe to rappel off of. The only way off was to down climb, so we checked it out and forged ahead. The next pitch seemed to go down a squeeze chimney and across the lower section of rock onto the hiking trail. As I start to wiggle my way into the crack, my feet find a good ledge where I can also put a cam and there is a good rail for my left hand, but it is a little bit of a reach and I had to keep squeezing further into the crack to hang on but after about 15-20 feet I landed on the ledge and placed a #4 cam in the crack behind me to redirect the rope. The walk off from there is a straight shot between the spires and off a sloping edge straight onto the trail. 4 pitches in total, I named this route Lucky Charms 5.7, although I am hardly the first assencionist. We found absolutely no information of those who climbed here before, and we have heard of a tragic incident that occurred here in the past. We hope to work with state officials to replace the old bolts at the rappel stations, streamline the permitting process, improve the climbing access trails, clean the broken glass and old beer cans and provide some information on all the routes that are possible here. West Virginia amazes us once again.