The Brim Report by Jerry Gault

The Brim Report by Jerry Gault Reports made from under the brim.

Hats will always be here, but so will backroads, downtown walks, old storefronts, small shops, flea-market finds, maritime stories, and whatever else makes me stop, look around, and wonder what’s going on.

07/13/2026

Under the Brim Field Tests

One of the goals of The Brim Report is to give each hat or cap enough time to make a full impression.

First impressions are useful. They tell us about appearance, fit, finish, and how a piece feels right out of the box. But some qualities only become clear after regular wear. Does it remain comfortable after several hours? Does the fit settle in? How does it handle heat, sun, wind, or light rain? Most importantly, does it become something I naturally reach for again and again?

That is the kind of review I want to provide.

Before writing a full review, I wear each piece in everyday life—walking, driving, shopping, dining, working outdoors, and spending enough time with it to understand both what it does well and where it may be less suited to a particular wearer.

Currently Under the Brim

Akubra Banjo Paterson

Delivered: May 28, 2026
Status: In regular use

Named for Australian poet and writer Andrew Barton “Banjo” Paterson, this country-style fur-felt hat is being evaluated for long-term comfort, fit, construction, versatility, and everyday wear.

Akubra Cattleman

Delivered: July 1, 2026
Status: Field testing in progress

The Cattleman is one of Akubra’s best-known outdoor hats. I am wearing it in ordinary Texas conditions to evaluate its broad-brimmed sun coverage, comfort, ventilation, stability, and usefulness as a practical outdoor hat.

Sterkowski Shelby Heavyweight Japanese Kuroki Denim Newsboy Cap

Delivered: July 8, 2026
Status: Long-term field test in progress

This eight-panel Shelby newsboy cap is made from heavyweight raw indigo denim produced by the Kuroki mill in Okayama, Japan.

This will be a longer-term test than the others. Raw denim develops through wear, and I want to document how the cap changes over time—how the crown softens, how the fit settles, whether the indigo transfers during early use, and how the color, creasing, and character develop with regular wear.

Akubra Stylemaster

Delivered: July 13, 2026
Status: Field testing in progress

The Stylemaster represents the urban side of Akubra. I will be evaluating its fit, balance, finish, comfort over a full day, and usefulness as an everyday fedora.

Quaker Marine Oysterman Cap

Expected delivery: July 17, 2026
Status: Field test begins upon arrival

The Oysterman is a distinctive American sporting cap closely associated with Ernest Hemingway. Once it arrives, I will wear it regularly before reviewing its long bill, fit, comfort, construction, and usefulness in sunny and outdoor conditions.

What I Evaluate

Each field test considers:

* Comfort after several hours
* Fit throughout the day
* Heat and ventilation
* Performance in sun, wind, and light rain
* Materials, stitching, and finish
* Durability during regular wear
* How the hat or cap changes over time
* How easily it works with everyday clothing
* Whether I continue reaching for it after the initial excitement has passed

Not every piece will be tested in exactly the same way. A broad-brimmed outdoor hat, an urban fedora, a sporting cap, and a raw-denim newsboy cap are designed for different purposes. Each should be judged according to what it is intended to do.

The goal is to spend enough time with each hat or cap to offer a thoughtful and useful assessment.

The final question is simple:

After living with it for several weeks—or longer, when the material calls for it—would I buy it again?

Tweed to Tour: How the Golf Cap Grew UpPlace a modern Peaky Hat newsboy beside a 1901 photograph of Old Tom Morris, and ...
07/12/2026

Tweed to Tour: How the Golf Cap Grew Up

Place a modern Peaky Hat newsboy beside a 1901 photograph of Old Tom Morris, and more than a century of golf history comes into view.

Morris stands on the Old Course at St. Andrews in a heavy jacket, waistcoat, sturdy shoes, and checked wool cap. The modern version belongs to a world of lighter materials, televised tournaments, and carefully chosen personal style.

Yet the family resemblance is obvious.

Both caps sit low on the head. Both have a short peak that shades the eyes without becoming a sail in the wind. More than a century separates them, but they are still trying to solve many of the same problems.

That is the real story of golf headwear. The cap changed because golf changed—but also because golfers kept asking more of it.

Before golf claimed the flat cap

Old Tom Morris did not need to dress like a historical golfer. He was one.

Today, his checked cap looks inseparable from the traditions of St Andrews. In 1901, it was closer to ordinary outdoor clothing. Morris and his contemporaries played in the jackets, waistcoats, ties, caps, and heavy shoes respectable men commonly wore outdoors. A surviving photograph shows him in that familiar outfit on the Old Course.

Wool and tweed made sense on exposed Scottish links. They offered warmth, tolerated damp weather, and were already widely available. A low cap was also easier to manage in the wind than a tall hat or a broad, rigid brim.

Nothing had been developed in a sports laboratory. Golf simply borrowed clothing that already worked.

In time, the game made it iconic.

Straw comes onto the course

Wool never had the fairway entirely to itself.

Straw hats and boaters appeared in warmer weather, particularly among women golfers. A 1909 portrait of Scottish champion Dorothy Campbell shows her in a substantial straw hat that looks as much a part of contemporary fashion as it does sporting dress.

Straw offered more shade than a short flat-cap peak, although a wide or stiff hat could become a nuisance when the wind came up. It also created a distinctive outline.

Chi Chi Rodriguez later turned that outline into part of his act. After making a birdie, he sometimes covered the hole with his straw hat “so the birdie doesn’t fly away.” Fans loved it. Some of his fellow professionals needed more convincing.

The hat still blocked the sun. It had also become theater.

The visor keeps only what matters

The visor may be the most honest piece of golf headwear ever made.

It keeps the peak and throws away almost everything else.

As golf clothes became lighter during the twentieth century, the visor offered shade without trapping as much heat. It also left the player’s face open to spectators and, increasingly, television cameras.

Arnold Palmer gave the visor one of its defining moments at the 1960 U.S. Open. He erased a seven-stroke final-round deficit, won the championship, and tossed his visor into the gallery. Because the broadcast footage was black-and-white, few viewers knew the visor was red. It eventually found its way into the USGA Golf Museum.

A simple strip of fabric and a peak had become part of golf history.

The cap becomes a billboard

Then came the baseball-style cap.

It covered more of the head than a visor, worked well in lightweight materials, and offered a smooth panel directly above the golfer’s face. That last feature became increasingly important as televised golf and individual sponsorships grew.

The front of the cap quietly turned into prime real estate.

A sponsor’s logo appears during putts, close-ups, interviews, and trophy presentations. A small mark on a sleeve may drift in and out of view. The logo above the eyes faces the camera whenever the golfer does.

Modern construction brought practical benefits, too: synthetic fabrics, mesh panels, stretch, ventilation, and sweatbands designed to handle heat and moisture.

The golf cap was no longer just something a player wore. It had become performance apparel, advertising space, and part of a professional identity.

The drawback was that a field of golfers could begin to look remarkably alike.

Payne Stewart refuses to disappear

Payne Stewart solved that problem by looking backward.

His knickerbockers, tall socks, and tam-o’-shanter-style cap made him recognizable from the far side of a fairway. The clothes recalled an earlier period, but Stewart used them in a thoroughly modern way. They became his visual signature.

The red, white, and blue cap he wore during the final round of his 1999 U.S. Open victory is now preserved by the USGA Golf Museum.

Stewart understood something important: tradition does not have to mean anonymity. An old shape can feel new again when the right person makes it his own.

Harry Hall and the newsboy

English golfer Harry Hall has brought another heritage silhouette onto the modern PGA Tour.

Golf coverage sometimes refers to Hall’s headwear as a flat cap, including the PGA Tour’s own reporting. More precisely, the fuller style he often wears is a newsboy cap. A traditional newsboy has a rounded crown made from several panels—commonly eight—and is usually finished with a button at the top. An ivy or flat cap has a smoother, lower profile and less volume.

That is not merely hat trivia. The construction changes the entire profile.

Hall’s choice has roots at West Cornwall Golf Club, where he played before leaving for college in the United States. The club was also once represented by Jim Barnes, the Cornish golfer who won four major championships. Asked whether that connection influenced his distinctive cap, Hall told the PGA Tour, “That’s kind of why I wear it.”

Peaky Hat later worked with Hall on *The One*, which is offered in both an eight-panel newsboy shape and a lower ivy profile. Its wider golf collection includes mesh, linen blends, h**p, wool, and several crown shapes intended for different conditions.

Hall’s cap is not a costume. It is an old silhouette brought back into the working wardrobe of a professional golfer.

Old shapes, new materials

The same idea appears in caps made for recreational players.

Sterkowski’s Links Spirit uses a traditional eight-panel newsboy crown, but the fabric is lightweight Irish linen rather than heavy tweed. Even the lining carries the golf connection, with a photograph of Gene Sarazen printed inside.

Boston Scally approaches the course from two directions. Its Fairway is a single-panel cap with a moisture-wicking sweatband, mesh lining, and ventilation eyelets. The Driver has a fuller eight-panel form made from lightweight woven polyester. Those performance descriptions come from the manufacturer, but the design idea is clear: preserve a recognizable cap shape while changing what it is made from.

None of these caps is remarkable simply because a product page calls it technical. Moisture control, ventilation, and synthetic fabrics are common throughout modern sportswear.

What is interesting is that those features are being incorporated into cap silhouettes that golfers would have recognized generations ago.

The old shapes were not necessarily obsolete. They were waiting for new materials.

A century under the brim

Golf headwear has always balanced function with personality.

The wool cap offered warmth and a manageable peak. Straw brought shade and character. The visor kept only the brim for hot weather. The baseball cap introduced modern materials and valuable logo space. Payne Stewart turned heritage style into an unforgettable image. Harry Hall has brought the newsboy back to the PGA Tour.

The fabrics have changed. The construction has changed. The marketing has certainly changed.

The basic job has not.

A golfer still needs to manage sun, wind, rain, heat, and distraction. The cap still has to remain comfortable while the person beneath it thinks about the next shot.

Place Old Tom Morris’s checked wool cap beside a modern golf newsboy, and the century between them begins to shrink.

Different cloth. Different construction. The same small peak over the eyes.

And the same hope that nothing under the brim will get in the way of the next swing.

Sources

Wikimedia Commons
Old Tom Morris on the Old Course, St Andrews* (1901). Public domain.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Old_Tom_Morris.jpg

Wikimedia Commons
Dorothy Campbell Portrait (1909), originally published in *The American Golfer*. Public domain in the United States.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:DorothyCampbellPortrait1909.jpg

United States Golf Association
Historical and museum material on Arnold Palmer, Payne Stewart, and Chi Chi Rodriguez.
https://www.usga.org

PGA Tour
Harry Hall interview discussing his cap and the connection to Jim Barnes and West Cornwall Golf Club.
https://www.pgatour.com/article/news/latest/2023/05/26/harry-hall-trying-to-remain-calm-as-he-seeks-first-tour-win

Peaky Hat
The Golf Series and 'The One,' developed with Harry Hall.
https://www.peakyhat.com/

Sterkowski Caps and Hats
Links Spirit
https://sterkowski.com

Boston Scally Company
Fairway and Driver golf caps.
https://www.bostonscally.com/

Image Credits

Old Tom Morris on the Old Course, St Andrews, 1901
Photographer unknown. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Dorothy Campbell, 1909
Originally published in *The American Golfer*. Public domain in the United States, via Wikimedia Commons.

Modern golf cap photography
© The Brim Report.

If you're interested in something different, have a look at Akubra Hats. They are based in Australia and sell outback an...
07/11/2026

If you're interested in something different, have a look at Akubra Hats. They are based in Australia and sell outback and other style hats. I have two with another on the way. I own the Cattleman and the Banjo Paterson. (Banjo is my favorite.) I have the Stylemaster on the way, arriving on 6/13. There is a company called David Morgan that sells many styles from the West Coast of the USA, so you don't need to buy directly from Australia. https://davidmorgan.com/collections/pre-creased-akubra I really like these hats; they are well-made and keep the sun off my head.

David Morgan

07/11/2026

Those who wear hats are happier, smarter, and better-looking, according to a study I made up.

Why BoxingSterkowski Caps and HatsI was asked by a few people over the past week why Sterkowski chose a boxing connectio...
07/10/2026

Why Boxing

Sterkowski Caps and Hats

I was asked by a few people over the past week why Sterkowski chose a boxing connection to their new Japanese Denim caps. I really don't know why. My involvement with Sterkowski is just as a customer who really likes their product.

My two cents:

The connection appears to be symbolic rather than historical. Sterkowski was founded in 1926, the same year as the famous Dempsey–Tunney heavyweight fight, and the anniversary caps are made from heavyweight Japanese denim. Sterkowski then extended the theme through a partnership with a Warsaw boxing school and by exploring ideas of discipline and hard work. I have not found any direct connection between the fight, the boxers, and the Sterkowski family or workshop.

heavy denim → heavyweight → heavyweight boxing → famous fight from 1926

They are the only ones who can answer the question. If you really want to know, you should ask them.

Honestly, though, it's their company and product. They chose it because it was a significant event held in 1926. That's what I think, and it's 100% their decision and right to choose whatever they want. They could have printed pink dancing hippos on the liner, and I still would have purchased the caps. :-) I'm not a fan of boxing, so the liner is not that important to me. Watching the raw denim transform over time, though, will be fun, and getting to wear the fantastic-looking flat cap just makes my day.

I feel there are better, more Poland-related connections that can be made. I've listed some of my favorites below. But again, they are free to do what they want. I'm looking forward to seeing what's next.

1. Anna Sterkowska and the founding workshop, 1926
2. Halina Konopacka and Poland’s first Olympic gold, 1928
3. Poland’s Chess Olympiad victory, Hamburg 1930
4. Kazimierz Nowak’s African journey, 1931–1936
5. Wanda Modlibowska’s world gliding record, 1937
6. Stanisław Marusarz at Lahti, 1938
7. Henryk Arctowski Antarctic Station, opened 1977
8. Jerzy Kukuczka, completing the fourteen eight-thousanders, 1987

The strongest choice is Anna Sterkowska. A woman opened a workshop in Warsaw in 1926, and one hundred years later, her family’s company is still making headwear. That story does not need to be borrowed from sport, boxing, exploration, or another country. It belongs entirely to Sterkowski.

A quicker read about the Sterkowski's new denim caps. The longer read is on The Brim Report page.Sterkowski Caps and Hat...
07/07/2026

A quicker read about the Sterkowski's new denim caps. The longer read is on The Brim Report page.

Sterkowski Caps and Hats

Raw denim and washed denim are not the same wearing experience. **Washed denim**, like the Buster duckbill, has already been softened and treated before it gets to you. The color is more settled, the fabric feels easier to work with from the start, and you can usually wear it like a regular cap without worrying much about the blue dye rubbing onto your shirt or skin.

Raw denim, like the Shelby newsboy, is different. It has not been washed or faded after weaving, so it starts darker, firmer, and more “unfinished.” That is what denim fans like about it. Over time, it softens, fades, and develops character based on how you wear it. But at first, the surface indigo can rub off, especially if the cap gets wet from rain or sweat. That is not a defect. That is part of how raw indigo denim behaves.

The easiest way to think about it is this: the Buster is the easier everyday cap; the Shelby is the cap you break in. If you want a denim cap you can wear with almost anything right away, the washed Buster is the safer choice. If you like the idea of a cap that slowly ages and changes with you, the raw Shelby is more rewarding, but you need to respect it for the first month. Do not wear it with a white shirt on day one, and do not treat it like a washed cap in the rain.

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐁𝐑𝐈𝐌 𝐑𝐄𝐏𝐎𝐑𝐓 The Brim Report by Jerry Gault𝐇𝐀𝐓 𝐓𝐘𝐏𝐄 𝐒𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐄𝐒 • 𝐍𝐎. 𝟏𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐈𝐑𝐈𝐒𝐇 𝐖𝐀𝐋𝐊𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐇𝐀𝐓The Irish Walking Hat may rese...
07/03/2026

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐁𝐑𝐈𝐌 𝐑𝐄𝐏𝐎𝐑𝐓 The Brim Report by Jerry Gault
𝐇𝐀𝐓 𝐓𝐘𝐏𝐄 𝐒𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐄𝐒 • 𝐍𝐎. 𝟏

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐈𝐑𝐈𝐒𝐇 𝐖𝐀𝐋𝐊𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐇𝐀𝐓

The Irish Walking Hat may resemble a bucket hat at first glance, but it is usually made from wool or tweed and has a more tailored, structured shape.

Traditionally associated with country walks, hunting, and outdoor life, it is a practical cold-weather hat with plenty of character. Hanna Hats says its current Walking Hat design was created in the 1960s and closely resembles one of the earliest hats made by the company's founder, David Hanna.

The hat shown here is my Hanna Hats Patchwork Tweed Walking Hat, handcrafted in Donegal, Ireland.

◆ 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐂𝐑𝐎𝐖𝐍

The Walking Hat has a tall, rounded crown with fairly straight sides.

Unlike a fedora, it does not rely on a center crease or front pinch for its identity. Some examples may show a slight dent or shaping, but the basic form is usually simple and upright.

My version is constructed from many pieces of wool tweed joined together across the crown. These patches create visible sections and seams, but this is not a fixed-panel design in the same sense as an eight-panel newsboy cap.

◆ 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐁𝐑𝐈𝐌

This is a true brim, extending completely around the hat rather than projecting only from the front like the peak of a cap.

The brim on this Hanna model measures approximately 1¾ inches (4.5 centimeters). It offers some protection from light rain, wind, and autumn sun without becoming overly wide for outdoor use.

Its slight downward angle gives it some resemblance to a bucket hat, but the firmer construction makes it look more tailored.

◆ 𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐔𝐂𝐓𝐔𝐑𝐄

The crown is supported by buckram, a stiffened fabric used inside hats to help them maintain their shape.

That does not make the hat completely rigid. Mine is stiff enough to hold its form, but it is still somewhat pliable.

Some descriptions say a Walking Hat can be folded and placed in a coat pocket. That may be technically possible if the pocket is large enough to hold half the Irish countryside.

Mine can be gently compressed, but I would not call it easily pocketable. It has considerably more structure than a soft bucket hat, and I would rather carry it or place it carefully in a bag.

◆ 𝐇𝐀𝐓𝐁𝐀𝐍𝐃 𝐀𝐍𝐃 𝐅𝐄𝐀𝐓𝐇𝐄𝐑

A wool tweed band circles the base of the crown.

A small group of feathers is tucked into the band, a traditional decorative touch often found on country and walking hats. The feathers add visual interest without making the hat feel overly formal.

◆ 𝐈𝐍𝐒𝐈𝐃𝐄 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐇𝐀𝐓

A fabric sweatband runs around the lower inside edge of the crown. It improves comfort and keeps the rougher wool tweed away from the wearer’s forehead.

The crown is fully lined with smooth viscose fabric, giving the interior a finished appearance and making the hat more comfortable to wear.

◆ 𝐌𝐀𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐀𝐋𝐒

Traditional Walking Hats are commonly made from wool or tweed, particularly fabrics suited to cooler weather.

This example is made from 100 percent wool. The patchwork construction combines different colors, patterns, and textures, so no two examples will look exactly alike.

◆ 𝐖𝐇𝐄𝐍 𝐖𝐎𝐔𝐋𝐃 𝐘𝐎𝐔 𝐖𝐄𝐀𝐑 𝐎𝐍𝐄?

The Irish Walking Hat is best suited to autumn, winter, and the cooler parts of spring.

It works for country walks, outdoor events, travel, and everyday casual wear. Despite its rural associations, there is no reason it has to remain outside the city limits.

It has enough personality to stand out while still being practical and comfortable.

◆ 𝐇𝐎𝐖 𝐓𝐎 𝐑𝐄𝐂𝐎𝐆𝐍𝐈𝐙𝐄 𝐎𝐍𝐄

Look for:

• A tall, simple crown
• A narrow brim extending all the way around
• Wool or tweed construction
• A hatband, sometimes decorated with feathers
• A shape that is structured but still somewhat pliable

The Irish Walking Hat sits somewhere between a bucket hat and a traditional country hat. It is practical, distinctive, and unusual enough to make people look twice.

𝐖𝐨𝐮𝐥𝐝 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐰𝐞𝐚𝐫 𝐨𝐧𝐞?

The Brim Report

Source material: Hanna Hats, Chapeau, and personal experience with the hat shown.

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Round Rock, TX

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