01/09/2023
In Meal Magazine Vol. 3, writer and bartender investigates the opaque new landscape of tipping and service fees. Order your copy at the link in our bio — this is just one of nine excellent stories.
—
“Excuse me. What is this?”
I turned around and saw a man hunched over the bar, squinting at a receipt. I’d only worked a few nights at the restaurant, but I could guess what he was wondering. “It’s a service charge, uh, added to every check in order to pay competitive wages,” I said. A long pause elapsed. “You don’t have to tip,” I blurted, and his forehead smoothed. He nodded once, scribbled a signature, and headed out the door. …
To understand service charges, we’ve got to face an ugly truth: for decades across the United States, servers and bartenders have wildly out-earned cooks and dishwashers, particularly in upscale restaurants. This pay gap pits front-of-house employees against back-of-house employees, and it feeds off preexisting inequalities in race, language barriers, immigration status, and more.
——
Art by ._.luck