12/20/2025
✍️ “The beach was once a bridge. This was long ago. It is an old story.
Thirty-six thousand years before human memory, the Earth’s water froze into attics of ice. It was a period of glaciation. The seas shrank. And a vast ramp of rock emerged from the receding surf, cementing Eurasia to the Americas. Grasslands sprouted atop the new land—Beringia. Imagine a cool Serengeti. Proto-horses drummed over it. So did gigantic horned bison. Panthera spalaea, cave lions larger than grizzlies, stalked myopic rhinos. Hairy elephants lumbered across. Some of these creatures perished along a maze of game trails. Their mineralized bones jut today from the Alaskan permafrost. This is where Tyler Weyiouanna finds them. He turns them into jewelry.
‘We find mammoth tusks eroding from the beach,’ said Weyiouanna, an Iñupiaq artist in the coastal village of Shishmaref, whose small grid of mud streets and boxy homes face the steel-colored waves of the Bering Strait, beyond which, barely a hundred miles away, Russia hunkers invisibly. ‘They look like pieces of brown logs or sticks.’
Shyly, Weyiouanna held up a ring he’d carved from a fossil tusk. He placed the small, bewitching disk in my palm. Warm to the touch. Polished like glass. The petrified bone as milky as campfire smoke in moonlight. The last time a human being saw a living mammoth was perhaps 10,000 years ago, shortly after the global climate warmed once again, swelling the oceans, and re-drowning the steppes between Siberia and Alaska. Was Weyiouanna’s ring, I wondered, whittled from some shaggy colossus speared by the very people I had been following for a dozen years? Did I just walk 27,000 kilometers to cup this nomad echo in my hand?
Sitting at Weyiouanna’s dinner table, I suddenly felt the whisk-whisk-whisk of Lyme grasses against hide leggings. I could hear the hunters’ remote cries lopped off by razored winds. And then the final trumpet of a toppled behemoth. It made a faint rattling among the chipped coffee cups, before passing away and beyond.”
— Paul Salopek, “First Beach”
🔗 Read Paul’s new dispatch from the trail here: https://outofedenwalk.nationalgeographic.org/first-beach
👣 Also: Crowdfunding for the Out of Eden Walk nonprofit organization continues! Independent journalism requires public support. Please consider donating to our annual crowdfunder today.
✨ Our Board of Directors is generously matching every donation at a 1:1 ratio up to $45,000, so donations are doubled for twice the impact.
🔗 At the link, read about why we fundraise, learn more about the trail ahead, and keep us moving forward with a donation: www.outofedenwalknonprofit.org/campaign
Thank you to everyone who has donated so far! We're grateful to have you along for the journey. 🙏
📷 Pictured: First steps on a new continent. Paul Salopek visited the isolated Inupiat village of Shishmaref, Alaska, located on the Bering Strait, before setting out on foot from Anchorage towards Tierra del Fuego.
Photo by Paul Salopek
Image descriptions in comments.