12/18/2025
James Yeun Leong Parry’s new restaurant in San Francisco, The Happy Crane, celebrates the acclaimed chef’s Chinese heritage and English background with a menu rooted in tradition yet expressed through a modern lens. Dim sum and small plates are peppered with creative flavors like smoked figs, coppa and artichokes, while fresh seafood stars in “XO little fry king,” Parry’s take on a street-food mainstay typically prepared with dried seafood.
The restaurant’s design also deftly marries old and new — an aesthetic crafted by Maria Wu of Studio Wu and architect Hallie Chen of CAHA Design. Highlights include a large, custom artwork by local artist Jesselle Sue that serves as a backdrop to a sleek seafoam banquette; a large-scale floral lantern that nods to classic paper lanterns in the private dining area, where pivoting white oak slats offer flexible privacy; and dark floral wallpaper that’s reminiscent of vintage cheongsam dresses adds a playful-yet-refined touch in the bathroom.
✍️ Lotus Abrams
📷 Ekaterina Izmestieva